Sailor Mars and Sailor Mercury Hair DIY Tutorial

Sailor Rain , Make Up! Sailor Moon Cosplay Hair Tutorials

These Sailor Moon hair tutorials originally appeared in the ‘gyaru’ magazine, Ageha, which ceased publication in April of 2014. I’ve put them here in hopes that someone will find them useful for some Sailor Moon cosplay. My loose translations are snarky, yet accurate.

Click any of these photos to be taken to an annoying photo page  (gotta make that paper), then click again there to see the huge version of the jpg itself.

Sailor Moon Hair DIY Tutorial
Sailor Moon Hair DIY Tutorial from Koakuma Ageha 9/08 Issue

Sailor Moon Hair Tutorial

Separate hair into even pigtails, reserving a a third of the hair at the base of your neck for some creativity later. Split those bangs in half, too. Backcomb each pigtail at the base, then wrap it into a loose bun and pin in place. Part the hair left at the back of your neck and then wrap it around the hair elastic on the buns. Pin in place. Curl as desired. Wake up late for school, bomb a test, date a guy way older than you, then blame it on a cat you found in the street.

Sailor Pluto and Chibi Usa Hair DIY Tutorial
Sailor Pluto and Chibi Usa Hair DIY Tutorial from Koakuma Ageha 9/08 Issue

Click Photos to View Full Size

Sailor Pluto Hair Tutorial:

Use a straightening iron to smooth those locks to a silky sheen. Create a high ponytail, then tease up the hair at the base. Curl the hair around the ponytail to create a soft, messy bun and pin in place, then shellac the whole thing with two cans of hairspray.

Sailor Chibi Moon Hair Tutorial:

Separate hair into pigtails. Use a large curling iron to create ringlets throughout. Gently brush the middle of the pigtails with a soft bristled bush to give each pigtail a full-bodied look. Wrap some of the hair from the bottom of the pigtail around the hair tie to cover them up and create more lift from the head. Pin in place. Use your hands to shape the hair so that it curls up. Twist the ends with a bit of mousse to make spiraling tendrils that hold their shape.

Sailor Venus and Sailor Jupiter Hair DIY Tutorial
Sailor Venus and Sailor Jupiter Hair DIY Tutorial from Koakuma Ageha 9/08 Issue

Sailor Venus Hair Tutorial

Create a part that crosses horizontally over the middle of the head. The idea is to create a large space for both bangs and the Minako hair poof. Draw the hair from the top of the head into a ponytail at the crown. Use a straight iron to flatten all that hair, then curl the ends ever-so-gently with a large-barreled curling iron. Draw a lock of hair from the bottom of the ponytail to wrap around the hair elastic. Back comb at the base of the ponytail to pump up the volume. Take a straight iron to those bangs and Bob’s your uncle.

Sailor Jupiter Hair Tutorial

Part your hair just like we did in the Venus hair tutorial. Brush bangs to the right and pin behind the ear. Curl the ponytail hairs and back comb at the base. Add a mouse or other soft holding product to the ponytail, working in gently with your hands. Pin locks from the front of the ponytail down so that they cover the hair elastic. Something tells me Makoto would never spend this much time on her hair.

Sailor Neptune and Sailor Uranus Hair DIY Tutorial
Sailor Neptune and Sailor Uranus Hair DIY Tutorial from Koakuma Ageha 9/08 Issue

Sailor Neptune Hair Tutorial

Neptune’s hairstyle is pretty much the same as Grace Adler’s. To achieve this effect, first part hair at the middle of the head to allow for a lot of bangs. Add three hot curlers to each side and the back at the crown. Leave in for length of one episode of Bob’s Burgers. Curl the rest of the hair with a large-barreled curling iron.  Gently comb out the curls to create a wavy look and backcomb at the base for volume. This article keeps saying to add ‘wax’ to the ends of your curls to make sweet lil’ tendrils, but use the styling product of your choice. Add a hot curler to the bangs and watch another round of Bob’s Burgers.

Sailor Uranus Hair Tutorial

Neptune can not be legally shown in any capacity without Uranus appearing next to her, so this article has successfully fulfilled that obligation. Part your short hair to the side, add hot rollers, see what Louise is up to, remove rollers, then work in some of that ‘wax’ to create separate spikes of badassery.

Sailor Mars and Sailor Mercury Hair DIY Tutorial
Sailor Mars and Sailor Mercury Hair DIY Tutorial from Koakuma Ageha 9/08 Issue

Sailor Mars Hair Tutorial

Spray the ends of your hair with a hot new product they’re plugging, creatively called ‘Curl Water’. Dry your hair after all that Curl Water application, then curl the bottom half of the hair. Brush gently, then separate your crunchy, product-laden tendrils. Then spray them some more? Basically, Rei doesn’t do her hair. This is a page-filler because you can’t just leave out Sailor Mars.

Sailor Mercury Hair Tutorial

Part at the top of the scalp, leaving ample room for big bangs on the right. Add hot rollers at the top of your head and straight iron the rest while you wait. Toss your curlers to the wind and backcomb at the crown. Work your fingers in to fluff everything up, then set with a light dusting of chemicals.

Questions? Ask on Facebook…

Reversible Cape Tutorial

DIY Reversible Cape by Ash

Reversible Cape Tutorial
Reversible Cape by Ash

For each tutorial I publish, I add our ‘Upload a Photo‘ link so that readers like you can post the results. It helps me to know if a tutorial works, and offers first-person experience for the next reader who tries the instructions.

To the reader, apparently this translates to, ‘I CHALLENGE THEE TO A DUEL’. It’s like I took off my glove and slapped ya across the face with it. You guys are always outdoing me! I feel like you didn’t even want a pop tab bracelet last summer. You just wanted to blow me out of the water.

Well, ya got me again. After following my simple hooded cape tutorial, DIY Fashion reader Ash decided to put me in my place by making her cape reversible. This is another one of those moments when I look at your submissions and go ‘Doh! Why didn’t I think of that!’. Yes, behold, a reversible, shimmering, huge-hooded cape:

Reversible Cape
Reversible Cape by Ash

Then look at my brown one.

Rain’s Cape:

DIY Cape Tutorial
DIY Cape Tutorial by Rain, decidedly not reversible.

Yeah. If you reverse it… you get more brown! Ash really handed my ass to me on this one. Nice work!

To get some tips from Ash (clearly I needed ’em) check out photos of her reversible cape and read about her project experience.

See, I’m on to you, now. I’m steppin it up a notch. I might even buy special lights to photograph my craftiness. It’s on like Donkey Kong, readers.

Think you made it better than me? Share a photo of your DIY Fashion creation, and tell us all about it. I’ll post your photo on the tutorial so that you can properly shame me in front of the next reader.

Tusken Armor Paint

Female Tusken Raider Bib: Day Four

Tusken Raider Bib
What we are working on today.

I’m back with another costume update for my female Tusken Raider costume. The female Tuskens showed up in Star Wars Episode II. I’m making this costume for MARCon, happening May 9th-11th, 2014.

Last time, I completed the ‘bezel’ oval bits by using a Sculpey mold and Model Magic. Easy peasy. Today, I’m ready to attach the bezels and paint the armor plates on the lower ‘bib’.

Gluing Tusken Raider Bits
Gluing Tusken Raider Bits

I used some E600 to attach the Model Magic bezels to my armor plates. If you didn’t tune in last time, the armor plates are made up of just cardboard and paper mache. Believe it or not, these saltine crackers are going to be awesome female Tusken armor!

E600 was probably not necessary here, but I was foolish enough not to make extra bezels in case of an emergency at the con, so I really want these to stick. Forever.

Painting my saltine armor.
Painting my saltine armor.

I used Dazzling Metallics variety of DecoArt paints in Splendid Gold, Champagne Gold,
Worn Penny, and Rich Espresso. The first layer of paint is a mix of Worn Penny and Splendid Gold.

Female Tusken Armor
Painting pockmarked armor pieces.

As you can see at the top of the above photo, I got a little excited with painting and actually painted a couple of armor crackers before sticking on my bezel. Don’t do that! I should be okay, because it was just a thin layer of paint, but the bezels could come off if you are gluing them on top of paint. I quickly realized the dum-dum nature of this practice and stuck on my bezels before painting.

Tusken Armor Build
Gluing painted pieces to the cloth.

I added two coats of the Worn Penny/Splendid Gold mix. The second layer had decidedly more of the Worn Penny color. I’ve seen female Tusken armor that looked way too gold and didn’t like it, so I want to stay closer to a bronze color, here. When the two layers were dry, I started gluing the armor to a rectangular cloth that measured a few inches taller than all of my pieces. I used just Mod Podge to glue, with a piece of paper underneath the cloth so that it didn’t stick to the finish of my fine imported desk (that means it’s from Ikea).

Building Tusken Armor
Spacing the rectangles tuned out to be easy.

From my reference photos, I gathered that the space between the armor rectangles was exactly as wide as one of the armor pieces. Yay! That made things easy. I just used spare pieces to measure as I went. This is also how I measured and created the long, bottom piece. Haha, Longbottom.

Tusken Raider Paint
Finishing the paint job with more of a bronze color.

I don’t recommend this, but I got antsy to move things along. I should have finished painting all of my armor pieces before putting them on the muslin. But, instead, there I am at about 1 A.M., carefully trying to keep paint off of the muslin. All the best costuming happens after midnight, anyhoo.

Tusken Armor Paint
More painting on my female Tusken armor.

For the details, I added the Rich Espresso color to the pockmarks, and blended the Champagne Gold onto the edges. This gave my armor much more dimension. A mix of the Rich Espresso and Worn Penny will also create the illusion of shallow dents.

Now that I’ve got some paint down, it really feels like this costume is moving along! I’m really happy with the first of my dried and painted paper mache pieces. They totally look like armor and are super lightweight.

Back to Day 2 | Day 5 Coming Soon | Female Tusken Raider Build Index

Tusken Raider Helmet Build

Female Tusken Raider Mask – Day 2

Female Tusken Raider Helmet
This is the part we are working on today.

Previously, I created the shell for my female Tusken Raider mask by adding clay and bits of paper to Melissa, my Styrofoam mannequin.

Day Two

I let my first helmet layer dry overnight, then removed it from Melissa’s face. My clay wedges and newspaper bits worked great! I had the basic helmet shape that I needed to build upon.

I looked at my reference photos and figured that I would need more helmet shape on the sides. For these, I cut up a Disney flier that came in the mail. Save stiff paper like this, it really comes in handy to add structure to paper mache projects. This is the same material I used for the ‘bone’ parts on the upper bib.

I traced my side pieces out in my journal and so that you could print this little pattern piece and trace it on paper. It should print at the right size:

Tusken Raider Helmet Pattern
Tusken Raider helmet side piece pattern

Here is the additional paper pieces glued to my helmet base:

Tusken Raider Helmet Tutorial
I added stiff paper to the dried helmet to extend the sides.

While these dried, I played around with a Sharpie to loosely sketch some landmarks on my base. I’ll paper mache over this bit, but it helped me to get familiar with all of the necessary lines and where everything is going to be, later.

Tusken Raider Helmet Build
The near-finished helmet base with loose sketches of detail.

Back to Day 1 | Female Tusken Raider Costume index

 

female tusken mask

Female Tusken Raider Bib Scratch Build

female tusken mask
Reference photo: female Tusken bib and mask.

Here are my photos, patterns, and tutorial on how I made my female Tusken Raider bib. See the rest of my female Tusken Raider costume photos and tutorials here.

Reference Photos

The bibs look like they fall right above the waist, and start just at the chin. My bib length is about 20″, but they can vary according to your height.

Looks like they should fall just above the waist.

Day One

The Half-Moon Piece

The first piece of the bib that I made was the ‘half moon’ bit that hangs at the end of what I’m calling the ‘upper bib’.

Tusken Raider Bib Part
That half-mooney bib part

Like the female Tusken Raider helmet, I planned on paper macheing my way to success on all of the armor plates. I decided that this weird shape was as good as any to start with, and it would be a fair experiment of the kind of texture that I could give my sculpture.

Female Tusken Raider Bib Part
I traced my rough idea of the shape onto cardboard.

This piece ended up being the basis for the size of the entire bib. The bottom line on my ‘half moon’ piece is the same width as the rectangular plates, 2 7/8″

Female Tusken Armor Texture
To create the basis for texture, I used newspaper bits.

I knew that I didn’t want this to be flat… the female Tuskens wear metal plates that have seen better days, and are marred with pockmarks and dirt. To create the basis for texture, I balled up bits of newspaper dipped in my paper mache mixture and put them on the surface.

My paper mache recipe is 1 part Mod Podge, 1 part flour, 4 parts water

Paper Mache Texture
A thin layer of paper mache to start…

Instead of using strips of paper mache, I cut a piece of blank newspaper and laid it gently over the face of the cardboard. I cut slits where needed so that I could neatly fold the paper over the edges. This prevented any kind of crisscross texture.

Tusken Raider Armor Build
Forming smooth texture on dried paper.

I added another careful layer of flat newspaper, then used the end of a paintbrush to push the paper in between my previously laid newspaper balls. I even stabbed at it to get a few pockmarks.

Tusken Raider Paper Mache
The dried half-moon piece, ready for paint.

This is the finished half-moon piece. I was really happy with how this turned out!

Starting the Bib

I started out the female Tusken Raider ‘lower’ bib with a lot of measurements. I have done a lot of quilting in my time, so I knew that if I didn’t measure each square just right, I’d end up with a mess. I couldn’t find any measurements online, so I scoped out the bib reference photos as well as I could. The 501st states that the bibs can vary in length, depending on your height.

The bottom of the armor bib has 18 rectangular pieces and one long rectangle at the bottom. I have seen some that have curved armor plates, but I went with simple square and rectangle shapes.

My rectangles measured as shown below:

Tusken Raider Pattern
My measurements for the female Tusken Raider metal plates.

To get the size of my squares, I measured from my chin to the bottom of my ribcage. I got 20″. From the reference photos, I estimated that the top, square plates looked to be about 3″ tall. I subtracted 3″ from 20″ to get 17″.

I then divided 17″ by 9 to get the height of the 8 remaining rectangle plates and the long rectangle at the bottom. It ended up being 1.888888″. I nodded like Mordecai and Rigby ‘Hmm. Hmm Hmm’ and soundly rounded up to 2″.

For my cardboard pieces that would be the base of the plates, I measured a little less for the height… I used  2 7/8″ instead of 3″ because I needed to allow for the extra thickness that the paper mache would add between plates.

Female Tusken Armor
I measured my armor pieces to fit about 20″, from my chin to waist.

I measured one cardboard piece, then used that as a pattern to quickly cut out the rest. I laid out a measuring tape and ruler to make sure I was on the right track.

Tusken Raider Armor Layout
My Tusken Raider armor layout, all cardboard pieces.

Here are all of my cardboard pieces laid out. I used a thick coated paper flier from a mailed flier to make the ‘bones’ in the middle of the bib’s second layer.

Day 2 – Paper Mache and Upper Bib Construction

Day 3 – Oval Bezels on Plates

Female Tusken Raider Build Index

Female Tusken Build

Female Tusken Raider Bib: Day Three

Female Tusken Masks
This is what we will be working on today.

Last time, I finished paper macheing my armor plate pieces and creating basic elements of the female Tusken Raider bib.

Today, I’ll be tackling some of the (only) details.

Armor Plate Bezels

To create the metal bezels on the face of each plate, I first traced one of my cardboard pieces into my notebook. Then, I sketched what looked like the right size bezel onto the tracing.

I wanted the bezels to be identical, so I thought that creating a mold would work best.

Tusken Raider Armor
I am not a robot, so I made a mold out of Sculpey for identical bezels.

I created a mold from white Sculpey by tracing my drawn oval with graphite pencil, then pressing a cube of Sculpey onto the oval. This transferred the exact oval size onto the Sculpey! I then carved out the oval to the depth that I thought looked good. I totally eyeballed it.

Tusken Raider Armor
My female tusken bezels made via mold. Apparently by ‘ain Blanken’

For the bezels, I decided that the Crayola Model Magic would work best. They sell it in ‘single packs’, so you don’t have to buy much. It is easy to mold and dries lightweight. I have muscle issues, so the last thing I wanted was to be weighed down by this armor bib. Making everything as lightweight as possible is a theme that you’ll notice in my work.

Bezel measurements are 1″ wide, 1/2″ tall, 3/8″ high

Female Tusken Build
Lots of bezels drying on my notebook.

I didn’t fire my Sculpey mold before using it to mass produce the bezels. I didn’t need to, because the Model Magic was so much softer than the Sculpey. I did wipe some oil on the mold before each impression, to keep the Model Magic from sticking. This made it a lot easier to remove the Model Magic from the mold after pressing.

So far, I’m loving the Model Magic to make simple costume elements. It can get damaged easily, but Tusken Raiders are grungy, anyhoo. My mold wasn’t perfect at first, but I was able to experiment with the Model Magic, and then dig my mold a little deeper.

Think my bezels will survive Marcon?

Right now, all of my armor plate pieces are sculpted and ready to be painted!

Female Tusken Build
All parts paper mache’d and ready for painting!

Back to Day 2 | Ahead to Day 4 | Female Tusken Raider Build Index

Female Tusken Bib Parts

Female Tusken Raider Armor Bib: Day Two

Day Two:

Upper Bib Pieces

On Day One of my female Tusken Raider bib build, I took measurements and made patterns for what I’m calling the ‘lower bib’. Today, I created the ‘bone’ and tubular pieces of the ‘upper’ bib:

Female Tusken Raider Armor
These ‘uns.

Last time, I cut the ‘bone’ pieces from a thick, coated paper flier I got in the mail. I wanted to avoid thick cardboard because these pieces needed to appear thinner than the others, and remain flexible. I really eyeballed these when I cut them out, but I’ll post measurements here.

Tusken Raider Armor Layout
The cut ‘bone’ pieces are dark blue, from a Disney Cruise Line flier I got in the mail. ;p

I coated these oval pieces in flat newsprint soaked in paper mache to create a nice, flat surface. I did this twice to make them a little firmer.

There are five ‘bone’ pieces on the upper bib. I cut rectangles, then rounded the edges. Here are the measurements for each ‘bone’ piece:

  • 4 1/4″
  • 4″
  • 3 1/2″
  • 3 1/4″
  • 2 3/4″
Female Tusken Bone Pieces
My ‘bone’ and tube pieces for the second bib.

I then cut 2 9″ pieces of 1/4″ wide plumbing tube. You can find this for cheap at the hardware store. I soaked strips of paper bag in paper mache for about a minute, then wrapped each tube. This is going to create a foundation for me to build on later. I’m setting these pieces aside for now.

Armor Plates

Back to the plates. Previously, I explained how I measured and cut all 19 of the armor bib plates.

Today, I cut pieces of newspaper that were about 3/4″ larger than each previously cut cardboard piece. I dipped the paper in paper mache solution, then carefully covered each cardboard piece, folding over the edges like a present. I did this twice, then added texture with the handle-end of a paintbrush.

Tusken Raider Armor Plate
Cardboard armor plate piece and cut newspaper to fit.

Next, I am going to make the bezel ovals that go on each armor plate piece. What do you think of my progress so far?

Back to Day 1On to Day 3… | Female Tusken Raider Build Index

Tusken Raider Paper Mache Helmet

Female Tusken Raider Helmet Scratch Build

Female Tusken Raider Helmet
This is the part we are working on today.

Here, I’m posting photos of my female Tusken Raider helmet, as well as instructions on how I made it. This tutorial is intended to help anyone who wants to tackle the helmet from scratch; I’ll continue adding photos as this progresses.  See the rest of my female Tusken Raider costume build here.

Female Tusken Raider Helmet

I started out with paper mache because I have a lot of experience in this medium. I knew that I could tackle the shape of the female Tusken Raider helmet, but if you’re not sure that paper mache is right for you, then you might want to go with the pre-made female Tusken Raider helmets.

Day One

Female Tusken Raider Helmet
My paper mache glue is a mix of both mod podge and flour.

I started with Melissa, my styrofoam mannequin head named after my sister, who lives out in Kansas. We like to set up Melissa for family events and pretend she’s there. Once again, Melissa is rearin’ and ready to help out with one of my projects.

If you don’t have a mannequin head, you can also use a balloon. Measure the circumference of your head just above your ears to see how big your helmet needs to be. Melissa is smaller than my own head, so I used wads of paper mache to create space between my layers and the head.

My paper mache mix is 1 part Mod Podge, 1 part flour, and 4 parts water.

I added wedges of modeling clay to the head to create the flat shape extending down at the ears. Note the white clay stuck to the head in the photo below.

Tusken Raider Paper Mache Helmet
I added paper wads and clay to made the helmet slightly larger than my mannequin head.

I added strips at the top of the head and down the ear line. This gave me the helmet shape right away. I slowly worked to add paper mache strips from the ear line up over the face and forehead, adding wads of wet newspaper to build the helmet slightly away from the styrofoam head. This ensures that  the helmet will be at least a couple of inches bigger than my own face, as the helmet appears in reference photos.

Use just a single layer of paper mache at this point, because too much paper is going to be too heavy, and will weight down between your supporting wads of newspaper. I recommend using phone book pages because they are very thin. Be patient at this point- you are creating a light shell to get the basic shape.

Day 2: Adding Side Panels | Female Tusken Raider Costume Index

Female Tusken Raider Costume

Female Tusken Raider Costume Scratch Build

The husband (I call him Mr. T) and I are finally headed back to MARCON! The Multiple Alternative Realities Convention occurs each year in Columbus, Ohio at the Hyatt Regency Columbus. It is shamefully little-known, as I consider it to be one of the best conventions out there! There will be an Iron Costumer event, dances, game shows, a masquerade, and even a Welcome to Night Vale panel.

The planning for this year’s MARCon coincided with a deep addiction to Tiny Death Star. Soon, I had a hankering to go as a Tusken Raider. I had originally planned on creating a male Tusken, but soon decided that the female Tusken Raider outfit was a challenge I couldn’t resist. Now, I’m creating a female Tusken Raider, and Mr. T will go as my gaffi-stick-wielding better half.

Reference Photos:

Female Tusken Raider Costume
Female Tusken Raider Costume
Female Tusken Raider Costume
Female Tusken Raider Costume

The Female Tusken Raiders appeared only in Episode II. Since I’m somewhat obsessed with creating and wearing non-sexy costumes, this seemed like a perfect opportunity to cover everything up. Nah, the real reason is that I just had to make that helmet and armor. There are some ready-made helmet and armor plate kits that you can buy, and that’s fine for with extra money and not a lot of time, but for me, it felt like a cop-out. I’ve got the time and ability to make it with my own hands, so I’m going to do just that.

My mind-meld with the Tuskens began as many of my projects do- with paper mache! Paper Mache is my answer to most construction problems. I’ve created everything from giant mascot heads to huge fruit on stakes. If it’s solid and weird, I can mache it.

I took photos of each step of my female Tusken Raider build, so I’ve separated this post into various costume parts to post my progress.

Female Tusken Raider Costume Tutorials:

Helmet – In progress [ See construction photos ]

Tusken Raider Helmet Build
Progress: Still paper macheing

 Armor Bib- In progress [ See construction photos ]

Tusken Raider Armor Layout
My Tusken Raider armor layout, all cardboard pieces.
  • Skirt- In progress [ See construction photos ]
  • Shawl- In progress [ See construction photos ]
  • Wrappings- In progress [ See construction photos ]
Rain Blanken Gypsy Costume

Gypsy Pirate Costume

Rain Blanken Gypsy Costume
Rain Blanken Gypsy Costume

We try to hit up the Ohio Renaissance Festival each year. There are live shows, unique vendors, and, my favorites, The Kings Nuts and honey mead. Here is the gypsy pirate costume that I cobbled together in the few minutes I had to get ready. The top is actually just a few long scarves strategically wrapped around my chestular region. The skirts were given to me by a good friend, and the rest is costume jewelry and accessories!

Later, Mr. T bought me a rose, and I took a cue from the Naughty Navels belly dancers and stuck it in my cleavage. Hey, when in the Renaissance…

Rain Blanken Gypsy Costume
Rain Blanken Gypsy Costume, yeah the boots aren’t period-authentic, I know.

I was kind of nervous about relying on a couple of scarves to guard my modesty, but my knots actually held up very well. I got through the day without incident, and didn’t have to sweat my way through the fest for once!

Rain Blanken Gypsy Costume
Rain Blanken’s Gypsy Costume with rose embellishment
Rain Blanken Gypsy Costume
Rain Blanken lurking in her Gypsy Costume

Compared to the many overflowing corsets populating the Ohio Renaissance Festival, I actually ended up being one of the more covered ladies in costume. Gotta love the olden days.

This is much better than the uniform I wore when I worked at the Renaissance festival:

Rain in her Ohio Renaissance Festival Gate Guard costume, 2009
Rain in her Ohio Renaissance Festival Gate Guard costume, 2009

Yikes. Check out that hat, ala the Swedish Chef. Yeah, you could say I had earned my bare-midriff day in the sun!